A Symphony of Water and Wonder: Exploring Iguazu Falls, Argentina

After spending some time in Buenos Aires, we booked a flight to Puerto Iguazu and Iguazu Falls. Few people know about Iquazu.  We settled into the Airbnb we set up prior to getting there.  The taxi dropped us off in a nice neighborhood, on a quiet street where close to the main bus lines.  We took local city buses (collectives) while here.  It was cheap, economical, and relatively easy to get around if you know Spanish.  We went into town and got some food, and people watched for a while and made it back home in the evening to get a good's night rest for our adventure the following day. The next morning we headed out on the bus again to the falls.  We could have taken a private taxi, however, buses are cheap and easy.   

The name alone Iguazu, (comes from the Guarani word "y" meaning "water", and "ûasú" {waˈsu}, meaning "big") conjures images of thundering water, lush rainforest, and breathtaking natural beauty.   Nestled on the border of Argentina and Brazil, this colossal cascade system is a true spectacle of nature, a symphony of water and wonder that leaves visitors spellbound.   While both sides offer unique perspectives, the Argentine side provides an immersive experience, allowing you to get up close and personal with the falls on two levels, exploring a network of trails and walkways that weave through the heart of this natural masterpiece. This comprehensive guide will take you on a journey through the Argentine side of Iguazu Falls, exploring its diverse trails, hidden gems, and the surrounding natural wonders.

A Natural Wonder of the World:

Before diving into the specifics of the Argentine experience, it's essential to understand the sheer scale and significance of Iguazu Falls. The system comprises over 275 individual waterfalls, stretching for nearly two miles across the Iguazu River. The majority of these falls lie on the Argentine side, offering a more intimate and extensive exploration.  Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984,  Iguazu Falls is not just a collection of waterfalls;  it's a vibrant ecosystem, teeming with diverse flora and fauna, a testament to the power and beauty of nature.

Planning Your Trip:

• Best Time to Visit: While Iguazu Falls is a year-round destination, the best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons (spring and fall) for pleasant weather and fewer crowds. The summer months (December-February) can be hot and humid, while the winter months (June-August) can be cooler with higher water levels.
• Getting There: The nearest airport is Cataratas del Iguazú International Airport (IGR), located just a few miles from the town of Puerto Iguazú, the gateway to the Argentine side of the falls. Several airlines offer domestic flights from Buenos Aires and other major Argentine cities. From the airport, you can take a taxi or a bus to Puerto Iguazú.
• Accommodation: Puerto Iguazú offers a range of accommodation options, from budget-friendly hostels to luxurious hotels. Consider staying within walking distance of the bus terminal for easy access to the park.
• Park Entrance: The Iguazu National Park has an entrance fee, which can be paid in Argentine pesos or by credit card. It's advisable to purchase your tickets online in advance, especially during peak season, to avoid queues.

The Rainforest Ecological Train:

The first thing we realized was that there was a train to take us around parts of the park!   It's a key part of the Iguazu Falls experience on the Argentinian side. It's officially called the Rainforest Ecological Train (Tren Ecológico de la Selva in Spanish), but it's often referred to as the "Waterfalls Train" or simply "the train." There were butterflies everywhere and we got some good pictures of them landing on us, we also realized how nice the station and train were!  We were glad later in the day to have this train because this place is HUGE!!!

Here's what you need to know about this small-gauge train within Iguazu National Park:

• Purpose: The train is designed to transport visitors efficiently and with minimal environmental impact to the main trailheads within the park, specifically:

  • Cataratas Station: This station provides access to the Lower and Upper Circuit trails.
  • Garganta del Diablo Station: This is the station for the Devil's Throat, the most iconic and impressive part of the falls.

• Gauge: It's a narrow-gauge railway, with a track gauge of 600 mm (1 ft 11+5⁄8 in). This smaller gauge allows the train to navigate the terrain and minimize the impact on the rainforest environment.

• Route: The train line is about 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) long, running through the jungle within the park.

• Experience:

  • Open-air carriages: The train has open-roofed carriages with wooden seats along the sides, allowing passengers to enjoy the sights, sounds, and smells of the surrounding rainforest.
  • Slow speed: The train travels at a slow speed (around 20 kilometers per hour or 12 mph) to minimize disturbance to the wildlife and allow passengers to appreciate the natural environment. It even stops if animals are crossing the tracks!
  • Eco-friendly: The locomotives are powered by either electricity or LPG (liquefied petroleum gas) to reduce their environmental impact.

• Inclusions: The train ride is included in your Iguazu National Park entrance fee. There is no separate cost to ride the train.

• Frequency: The train runs frequently throughout the day, so you shouldn't have to wait long to board.

Exploring the Argentine Side:

The Argentine side of Iguazu Falls is divided into three main circuits: the Upper Circuit, the Lower Circuit, and the Devil's Throat. Each circuit offers a unique perspective and experience, allowing you to appreciate the falls from different angles and distances.

• The Upper Circuit (Circuito Superior): This circuit offers panoramic views of the upper falls, providing a breathtaking overview of the cascading water. The relatively flat and easy trail takes you along walkways built above the falls, allowing you to witness the power of the water as it plunges over the edge. Key highlights include the Dos Hermanas Falls and the Bossetti Fall. This circuit is perfect for those who want to capture stunning photographs and appreciate the overall grandeur of the falls.
• The Lower Circuit (Circuito Inferior): This circuit takes you closer to the action, winding through the lush rainforest and leading to various viewpoints that offer stunning perspectives of the lower falls. You'll feel the mist on your face and hear the thunderous roar of the water as you descend closer to the base of the falls. Key highlights include the Salto Chico and the Salto Bossetti. This circuit is ideal for those who want a more immersive and sensory experience, feeling the power of the falls firsthand.
• The Devil's Throat (Garganta del Diablo): This is the star attraction of Iguazu Falls, a U-shaped cataract that marks the border between Argentina and Brazil. The sheer volume of water cascading down this massive chasm is awe-inspiring. To reach the Devil's Throat, you'll take the Ecological Train of the Jungle to the Devil's Throat Station, followed by a walk along a series of catwalks that extend over the river. The experience of standing at the edge of the Devil's Throat, surrounded by the deafening roar of the water and the swirling mist, is truly unforgettable.

Beyond the Circuits:

While the three main circuits offer a comprehensive exploration of the falls, there are other activities and attractions within the Iguazu National Park that are worth exploring:

• The Gran Aventura Boat Trip: This thrilling boat ride takes you on a close-up encounter with the falls, navigating through the rapids and even taking you under some of the smaller cascades. Be prepared to get wet! This is an exhilarating experience for adventure seekers.
• The Ecological Train of the Jungle (Tren Ecológico de la Selva): This environmentally friendly train connects the different circuits within the park, providing a convenient and scenic way to travel between them. It also offers a glimpse into the surrounding rainforest ecosystem.
• Yacutinga Lodge: For a more immersive experience in the surrounding nature, consider visiting the Yacutinga Lodge. This private natural reserve offers guided tours through the rainforest, providing insights into the local flora and fauna.

Tips for Your Visit:

• Wear comfortable shoes: You'll be doing a lot of walking, so comfortable shoes are essential.
• Bring a raincoat or poncho: You're guaranteed to get wet, especially if you take the boat trip or visit the Devil's Throat.
• Bring sunscreen and insect repellent: The sun can be strong, and there are mosquitoes and other insects in the rainforest.
• Bring a waterproof camera or phone case: You'll want to capture the stunning scenery, but be sure to protect your electronics from the water.
• Stay hydrated: It's important to drink plenty of water, especially during the warmer months.
• Respect the environment: Iguazu Falls is a fragile ecosystem, so be sure to follow the park's rules and regulations.

The Coatis of Iguazu

Speaking of the Ecosystem, one of the really neat things about Iguazu Falls, was the Coatis.  What's a Coati you ask?    They are an integral part of the Iguazu experience, and encountering them is almost guaranteed. These curious and often mischievous creatures are a constant presence in both the Argentinian and Brazilian sides of the park.

Here's a breakdown of what you need to know about the coatis of Iguazu:

What they are:

• South American Coati (Nasua nasua): They belong to the raccoon family, and are also known as the ring-tailed coati due to their distinctive long, banded tails.
• Appearance: They are about the size of a large house cat, with a long, pointed snout, a slender body, and a bushy tail that they often hold upright. Their fur is typically reddish-brown or dark brown, with a black face mask and white markings around the eyes and snout.
• Boldness and food seeking: This is the most important thing to be aware of. Coatis are notorious for trying to steal food from visitors. They are quick, agile, and not afraid to climb on tables, backpacks, or even people to get what they want.

Important things to remember about coatis at Iguazu:

• DO NOT FEED THEM: This is the most crucial rule. Feeding coatis encourages their habituation and can lead to aggressive behavior. It also disrupts their natural foraging patterns and can be harmful to their health.
• Secure your belongings: Keep your food and drinks securely stored in closed bags or containers. Be especially careful when eating at the park's restaurants or picnic areas.

The coatis are undoubtedly a memorable part of the Iguazu Falls experience. They add a touch of wildlife excitement to your visit. However, it's crucial to remember that they are wild animals and should be treated with respect. By following the park's guidelines and avoiding feeding them, you can help to protect both yourself and these fascinating creatures. We also saw tons of other smaller rodents, some monkeys and more butterflies and birds than we could identify!

Exploring Puerto Iguazú:

The town of Puerto Iguazú serves as the gateway to the Argentine side of the falls, offering a range of amenities and attractions:

• Güira Oga (House of Birds): This bird sanctuary is home to a variety of native bird species, offering a chance to observe these colorful creatures up close.
• The Three Borders Landmark (Hito Tres Fronteras): This landmark marks the meeting point of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay, offering panoramic views of the three countries.
• Local Cuisine: Puerto Iguazú offers a variety of dining options, from traditional Argentine steakhouses to international cuisine. Be sure to try some local specialties, such as empanadas and asado.

The local cuisine was what we were looking to do!  We found a great outdoor market that seemed to be teaming with people!   We found out it was the Feirinha Puerto Iguazú.  

The Feirinha de Puerto Iguazú, also known as "La Feirinha," is a popular tourist spot for those visiting the Triple Frontier (Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay), especially the Argentinian side. Located in downtown Puerto Iguazú, in the province of Misiones, this small market offers an immersion into local culture and gastronomy, with a rustic charm and plenty of opportunities to experience the region's flavors.

What you'll find at the Feirinha:

Although not very large, the Feirinha offers an interesting variety of products, with a focus on:

• Regional Products: Cheeses, salamis, olives (including stuffed olives, a local specialty), palm hearts, peppers, dulce de leche (milk caramel), and other handcrafted products. It's a great place to buy souvenirs and sample typical Argentinian flavors.
• Food and Drink: The market has several bars and restaurants with outdoor seating, perfect for a happy hour or a snack. Try Argentinian empanadas, the famous picada (a platter of cold cuts with cheeses, salamis, olives, and other accompaniments), and picanha, a very popular cut of beef in Argentina. As seen in the picture below!  Argentinian beers and regional wines are great options to accompany the snacks.
• Opening Hours: The Feirinha is open daily, with varying hours. It generally opens in the morning (around 9 am) until early afternoon (2 pm) and reopens in the late afternoon (4 pm) until the evening (11 pm). Some establishments may close during lunchtime (Siesta). It's a good idea to check the updated hours during your visit.

A Lasting Impression:

Iguazu Falls is more than just a collection of waterfalls; it's a sensory experience, a symphony of water, mist, and sound that leaves a lasting impression. The Argentine side offers a unique and immersive way to experience this natural wonder, allowing you to explore its diverse trails, get up close to the cascading water, and appreciate the surrounding rainforest ecosystem. Whether you're an adventure seeker, a nature lover, or simply someone who appreciates breathtaking scenery, a visit to Iguazu Falls is an experience you'll never forget. It's a reminder of the power and beauty of nature, a testament to the wonders that our planet has to offer.